The AMA Project: Changing the perception of Brazilian coffees
Brazil has long been recognised as a coffee giant, known for producing vast quantities of beans that fuel the world’s coffee consumption. Yet, despite its dominance in volume, Brazilian coffee has traditionally been more associated with body and sweetness than the complexity often sought in high-end specialty coffees.
The AMA Project aims to change this perception, introducing the world to a new side of Brazilian coffee by focusing on quality, innovation, and sustainability. Through a unique collaboration and new partnership between fourth-generation Brazilian coffee producer Luiz Paulo and Sasa Sestic of ONA Coffee and Project Origin, the AMA Project seeks to showcase the untapped potential of Brazil’s terroir.
The unique name of the project, ‘Ama’, comes from the female divers from Japan, who traditionally dived into the ocean to find pearls. The AMA Project centres around producing Geisha coffee, a varietal renowned for its delicate floral and fruity flavours, which are rarely associated with Brazil. The mission is bold: to redefine how the world views Brazilian coffee.
Vision and purpose: Redefining what Brazilian coffee can be
At the core of the AMA Project is a desire to elevate Brazilian coffee to a level not previously considered possible. Brazil, often associated with large-scale production and consistent but mild flavour profiles, is being reimagined through the lens of the Geisha varietal.
“This project aims to elevate coffees in Brazil, which are mainly known for their high production blenders, and make Geisha a more accessible varietal,” says Sasa Sestic, founder of ONA Coffee.
The project’s vision is built on the belief that Brazil’s terroir holds enormous untapped potential. By planting nearly 100 hectares of Geisha on Carmo Coffee’s farms, owned by Luiz Paulo, the AMA Project seeks to demonstrate that Brazil can produce coffee with the same level of complexity, fruitiness, and florality that coffee lovers typically associate with other regions.
Typically, Geisha is associated with countries like Panama or Ethiopia, where it is celebrated for its complexity and vibrant flavour characteristics. Sam Corra, Head of Coffee at ONA Coffee, explains how the project is allowing Brazil to now step into this space.
“The AMA Project is about pushing the boundaries of what Brazilian coffee can achieve,” he says.
“We’re combining the country’s natural assets – its terroir, climate, and coffee-growing heritage – with cutting-edge experimentation to produce a Geisha coffee that can stand toe-to-toe with the best in the world."
Expanding the possibilities of Brazilian coffee
While the AMA Project’s vision is lofty, its goals are rooted in practical achievements. The project aims not only to shift the perception of Brazilian coffee, but also to broaden the availability of specialty Brazilian coffees in the global market. With the goal of being able to annually produce up to 10 containers of Geisha coffee, the AMA Project aims to ensure that this high-quality coffee can be accessible to more consumers than ever before.
Geisha coffee is often seen as an exclusive, high-price-point product. However, the AMA Project’s large-scale production allows it to be offered at a more accessible price without compromising on quality. This, in turn, enables more consumers to experience the complexity and vibrancy of Brazilian Geisha – a coffee that combines the florality and fruitiness of the varietal with the richness and body characteristic of Brazilian terroir.
“One of our key goals is to bring this extraordinary coffee to a wider audience”, explains Sam.
“We want people around the world to discover the unexpected – Brazil isn’t just about volume; it’s about quality. And the AMA Project is leading that change.”
Another significant goal of the AMA Project is to position Brazilian coffee on the competition stage, where it can be evaluated alongside the world’s best. Specialty coffee competitions are often dominated by coffees from regions known for their exotic flavours, but Brazil’s presence in these arenas has been limited. The AMA Project aims to change that by showcasing Brazilian Geisha as a world-class contender.
Innovation and experimentation: Unlocking new potentials
The AMA Project’s commitment to innovation is evident in the extensive experimentation it has undertaken to fine-tune the production process. To date, over 60 unique experiments have been conducted, resulting in 113 distinct coffee lots.
These experiments cover a wide range of variables, including fermentation methods, processing techniques, and post-harvest practices. Each experiment is designed to explore how these factors influence the flavour profile, quality, and consistency of the coffee.
One of the most exciting outcomes of this experimentation is the discovery of entirely new flavour profiles for Brazilian coffee. For example, a fermentation process specifically developed for Geisha has brought forward flavours such as eucalyptus and green apple – notes rarely associated with Brazilian coffee but now part of the AMA Project’s distinctive offerings.
“We chased up so many different flavour profiles like florals, mandarin, stone fruits, tropical, red and purple notes – The goal is to allow this Geisha varietal to shine in all possible ways,” says Sasa.
“Some of the lots are coming from over 20 hectares in the forest (mata in Portuguese). We have isolated these coffees to be processed as a Washed because maturation is slower, and [it’s] not usual in Brazil for coffee to grow in this region.”
Apart from Washed, many of these processes in the AMA Project involve the Carbonic Maceration (CM) process, using different methodologies the Project Origin and ONA Coffee teams have curated over many years all over the world. According to Sam, such experimentation is at the heart of the AMA Project and its goals.
“We’re constantly testing new ideas, whether it’s tweaking fermentation times or exploring different drying methods,” he says. “The result is a coffee that not only tastes exceptional but also challenges preconceived notions about what Brazilian coffee can be.”
The project has also established a tiered categorisation system for its coffees, allowing for a precise understanding of quality. Coffees scoring 85.5 to 86 points are classified as ‘Santuario Geisha’, which offers a balance of quality and approachability, making them ideal for single-origin espressos.
Coffees scoring above 86 points, however, are classified under the AMA Project banner, representing the pinnacle of what Brazilian Geisha can achieve. The highest-scoring lots – known as ‘pearls’ – are those rare gems that surpass 86.5 points, offering the most refined expression of the varietal.
Sustainability and the future
Sustainability is a crucial pillar of the AMA Project. The project’s approach goes beyond just producing high-quality coffee; it’s about doing so in a way that benefits the environment and the local communities involved in its production. By employing innovative farming techniques and focusing on responsible resource use, the AMA Project aims to create a long-term model for sustainable coffee farming in Brazil.
Additionally, the project emphasises social impact, fostering stronger relationships between coffee producers and the international specialty coffee community. By sharing knowledge and techniques, the AMA Project is not only elevating Brazilian coffee, but also enabling all collaborators to continue improving quality and sustainability.
“Brazil has always been a leader in coffee production, but with the AMA Project, we’re showing that we can be leaders in sustainability and innovation too,” Sam notes.
“This is about building a future where Brazil’s coffee industry can thrive – both economically and environmentally.”
The AMA Project is not just about producing excellent coffee – it’s about changing perceptions, driving innovation, and ensuring a sustainable future for Brazilian coffee. By focusing on quality, experimentation, and collaboration, the project is paving the way for Brazil to be recognised not only as a leader in volume but also in specialty coffee.
As we prepare for first release of coffees from the AMA Project, one thing is clear: Brazilian coffee is entering a new era, and the projects like this are leading the charge.
